A Handwritten history of Staithes by Annie Weatherill Cole

Among the many treasures in Staithes Museum’s collection is a fascinating handwritten account of the village’s past, titled History of Staithes, by Annie Weatherill Cole (née Crispin).

This document, found in a ring binder during our cataloguing process, provides a vivid, firsthand glimpse into the everyday lives, traditions, and industries of Staithes in the early 20th century.

Annie’s history captures a time when fishing, shipbuilding, and mining were the backbone of the village economy. She describes the hard work of the fishermen and their families, the challenges of life at sea, and the resilience of the Staithes community. From tales of lifeboat rescues and smuggling to local superstitions and customs, her words paint a rich portrait of a place shaped by the tides and the people who lived by them.

Though no date is given on the original document, references to the harbour's completion in 1930 suggest that it was written in the 1930s or early 1940s. The text has been transcribed from a photocopied version in the museum’s archive, preserving Annie’s original spelling and grammar while adding paragraphs for readability.

We are delighted to share this remarkable piece of Staithes history, offering a window into the village’s past through the eyes of someone who lived it. The scanned document is available here, or you can read the transcript below:

Staithes

Staithes is a small fishing village on the north east coast of Yorkshire. This village lies between two cliffs and they are Cowbar Nab and Penny Nab there are about 1500 people live in the village it is very quaint and picturesque place and the main streets are High Street and Church Street branching from the main streets are narrow passages and the smallest of these is Dog Loop one would think the house would fall on each other when we see them from the cliffs.

The people in this village of most efficient men and miners and sailors but the fishing industry is declining. Many years ago forty small fishing boats went out of Staithes and now only eight go at one time twenty yawls was going to see belonging to this place in October these boats were laid up until January or February during this the men were doing the nets while they were home others went in the cobles the yawls took about ten men and sometimes two or three boys. These boats went to Aberdeen and to Great Yarmouth to sell there fish and to other places such as Hartlepool, Sunderland, Shields and Stockton. This is why Staithes people go to Stockton and Middlesbrough as the fisherman used to go to sell the fish so these people go yet, they have attended the fish market for a great many years.

The two last yawls were the True Love and the William Ash. When the men wanted to come home for a weekend their boats were laid up at Whitby or Port Mulgrave then called (Rosedale) and they had to walk home as there was no trains. When there is going to be a storm the boats are pulled up on the Staith and many years ago the boats were in High Street and Church Street and put in Bob Bells Bank this place is just as you are coming into Staithes.

The women of states have had to work very hard they had the bait to provide while the men were at sea it was years ago there women have to walk to Redcar, Ravenscar, Robin Hoods Bay, Whitby and Runswick Bay and other places along the coast they had to walk there and back. The bait they picket were called flidders after getting their load they had to carried them home. The last years it was much better went the train service on this line. When they came home they had to skane these for bait. Sometimes these women had to go early morning or late at night and had to spent the night in some of these people homes in the place where they were going to. Runswick people were not so kind with the Staithes people and would only let them go Tuesday and Fridays but years after they just went they wanted to go.

Robin Hood bay people treated them well and the rector of this parish the Rev. J. Cooper opened his house for all the girls people in Staithes always remember this good rector. Just before winter fishing started the cobbles went to Tees Bay for mussels and brought them home and put them on the scars - each man had a separate scar and they shared the mussels each man taking his share and putting them on his own ground and they soon set and when they wanted them this had to be done by tide and the women had to carry them in baskets and tubs and they also they had also to be skaned and the lines to bait and when the men came home the women had to pull the boats up the sand and they had to bait while the men's sell their fish.

In years long ago these women had to make the herring nets this was a long job as the nets are very large and now they can buy them ready done but the people still have to mend them to-day not many can do the nets now. When the nets wanted tanning that is done very often to keep them good they cutch as it is called was what they use then they were carried into the fields to dry this was a very heavy task. Then the water had to be carried from the beck for drinking and this was done in a morning or evening if people could not carry it themselves girls and boys did it for 6d a week. Washing days was a great day when so much was needed.

Ships were built at this village the largest of these was the Ocean in 1835 and was 88 tons schooners. Yawls and cobles also were built here. Schooners brought coal to Staithes and were sold to the people in this place and district.

The wood to build these ships were brought in rafts. After the Ocean was built it was taken to Whitby to be fitted out. Small ships came for Allum which was got at Boulby a short way from this village. Many people lived there and some came to go fishing.

Smuggling took place on this coast and many cargoes were brought. It was one of the chief places along the coast. Many ships were caught on this Coast the ship called The Good Hope was caught off Whitby in the year 1825 one was caught off Runswick and one off Staithes. There is secret passages in this place one goes under High Street and another at the bottom of the street and in this place is the goods were kept.

The minds near are Grinkle and boulby but the old mine was Rosedale. The first Ironstone was shipped from Hartle Loop. Years after, a harbour was built at Port Mulgrave and barges came and took the ironstone away. Grinkle Mines is in the middle of the woods these mines were closed down a few years ago which hundreds of men were out of work

There are a great many farms round this place. In years gone by people did a lot of work for these men. They used to work in the potato field for about nine pence a day but gave them a bag of potatoes. When the harvest time a great many hired to help and when the Farmers gathered in the corn they let the poor people glean the fields. When they finished gleaning they took it to Dale house Mill and had it ground into flour.

There is three chapels in this village and two churches; one Roman Catholic, and the Church of England. The chapels are Primitive Methodist and Wesleyan, Congregational which is the oldest.

The lifeboats which have been at Staithes are the Hannah, Summerset, Winfride Mary Hopps, Jonathan Scott, James Gowland and the John Anthony. Many great rescues have been made by men of this place. On the 29th day of November 1888 the Winfride Mary Hopps turned over. All the boats were fishing when a storm came on and all but one had come when the lifeboat had to go out. The crew were all fishermen which had just returned home. They got the three men in the lifeboat when she turned over. Three men were washed out of her and the others managed to keep in the boat. When she turned back again two men were alive and one man was dead. The people thought all the others were drowned but a passing steamer picked them up and took them to the Tees. When the boat turned over all was washed out of her and no oars to pull with. Next morning when news came of there safety the people were very thankful.

Two men were before the king in the year 1909 when the lifeboat rescued the men of the sailing ship Elise which was wrecked on Penny Steel and two men were lost.

The Lifeboat station was closed in 1924 and reopened in 1928 when a small boat was sent here. There is a rocket station on top of Cowbar which has done great rescue work. It was on 24th December 1894 that the steamer Progress came ashore near Staithes. The Rockets were called out and these men were saved all except the Captain. These men did great work. Other ships have been wrecked - when the barge called the Staithes was going for Port Mulgrave came ashore and the Rockets were called out that one girl in place of her father took his place and she was called second Grace Darling. This girl received a gold locket from the Captain.

Several men in Staithes have the board of trade medals for saving lives at sea. Some of these men are dead but the medals are a great lot thought about. The men are strong and sturdy and are very brave when there is lives to save.

There is a harbour here and was completed in 1926 and 1930 it was lengthened and made higher. It as a gas light and it flashes every few seconds. It is very safe for people to swim, which a great many visitors enjoy in the summer time. The small boats take people out to fish during the summer.

The school is on a splendid site and is situated on the top of the bank. Years ago there was no school just places where there were teached and not many went. The boys went to sea at 10 years old. Men and women live here now that cannot read or write

It was a great day when the first train came over the bridge - it took years to build. A great many remember the time well. Now you can go to any place by train or bus. The railway was opened on the 3d day of December 1888 there was a railway strike in 1926 and then the buses started carrying passangers from Loftus to Whitby

Dalehouse is a small place near this village and before the New Road all traffic had to go down this bank and it was very dangerous and the men went from this place to work at Grinkle Mines. They had an engine running on the lines and this took them. And the woods are on the either side of the lines from Dalehouse. You can get on the moors and to Roxby. Borrowby Ridge Lane and to Scaling.

There are many glens near this place the woods belong to Turtons and Palmers and the woods are gorgous with Primroses, forget-knots , violets and marsh marigolds and brambles are very plentyfull. The cliffs are very high you can get to Port Mulgrave and Runswick Bay, Skinningrove and Saltburn. The highest of these cliffs is Boulby and is 660 feet. Jet and Alum are found in these cliffs.

The History of Staithes

This village dates back from early days. There is a Roman road here and it said that a Danish Chief made a camp where Cowbar is. Captain Cook, the great navigator was a apprentice to Mr Sanderson who kept a drapers shop. He was charged for stealing a shilling and he ran away to Whitby. The house where cook served was washed down and the stones were put in the house in Church Street.

A great race took place between the Blyth Fisherman and Staithes fishermen. They rowed from this village to Whitby. The prize was a silver cup which is in the (listrick?). When the race took place the people lined on the cliffs to see the race and when the village men won they all had a gay time. Redcar men also rowed with these men but Redcar won.

A stone coffin was found near here. The men of here are very good navigators and many captain of ship belong to this village. Many artist have been to this place and Mrs Knight the famous artist was brought to stays and started to paint and for years looked on this place as her home. And in one of her writings she said I love the people and I lived liked them. She would give concerts and with some others the people would go to hear them.

During the Great Wall many lads lost their lifes during this time and the fishermen lost their boats. One man and his crew were taken on board of the German submarine and had to stay till they were put on board of a Danish ship and from that ship to a English ship. When the cobbles were put down during 1917 the man belonging to the submarine kept them on board till the last coble was coming then he put them on board the Venus and were landed safe ashore. These men had a great untaking. The coast along here was well watched by the soldiers. The North Sea was full of mines iand many ships were put down. People could often see the submarines when the boats went to fish. They had all to go together in what they called convoy and always had to be excorted to the fishing ground.

These people homes were very clean the sanded stone floor. There was a bare table late covered with oil-cloth pine pots for tea or coffee to drink out of. A bedroom suite was unknown in these days. These people always had plenty of saltfish cure during the summer and salted herrings. The men put them in cask during the season.

Knitting was done during evenings. Their did these jerseys, stockings and the women still do knitting, and the men oilskins had to be made at home. These people were always working.

It is very interesting to hear the fisherman talk about the weather - if a ring is round the moon it is going to be stormy, when the gulls fly high this is another bad sign. If the smoke rises straight into the sky it is going to be fine when the sky is red in the morning it is going to be windy day and if red at evening it will be a fine day the next day.

Long ago people were superstitious and are still. Should anyone talk about pigs and foxes while they are doing any gear it is a sure sign of bad luck. These men do not like to meet a woman first on the morning and at Christmas should a candle get broke which are given by the shopkeepers (a very old custom) and if this candle gets broke it will be bad luck and if a looking glass gets broke seven years bad luck. Holly must not be burnt, nothing such as green leaves, and if egg water is kept in the house or the hands should get splashed warts would come. And if a Christmas cake broke nothing would be so unlucky.

When a child is born belonging to the people of this village, after a few days but not before it has got its name, it is taken round to all friends from house to house and they give it salt, sugar, and silver, which if not given these it would be very unlucky. Them have to go to the homes to give the child their names.

Easter Sunday was a great day, girls and boys would go to fields with the eggs and were dyed different colours then the boys would get the shoes. And Monday they got the boys caps. To get them back, money had to be paid. Many a fight took place at this time of the year.

Hinderwell fair was on Easter the boys and girls from states would go to this fair. They attended all fair around and about and dance were held in barns and fiddles were the only music. They loved plenty of sport.

Staithes fair was in May or June this was a great event of the year. Weeks before, cleaning began;mats washed at the beck, everything turned out, baking was done a week before. Getting ready for the fair, men and boys laid their boats up that week and painted the boats. The fair always was on the sands and seaton garth. Roundabouts and Bobby horses, swinging chairs, stalls were in the street. These girls and boys had great fun. Each boy bought the girl what they called fairings. This means buying something from the stalls on Staithes fair.

Tuesday a club walk took place - the shepherds club. The men came walking down High Street up Church street headed by a band, each member having a green ribbon crossed round shoulder, then went to one of the chapels for services, then to Hindwell and walk back again. If any member did not go, he was fined but now the club finished and the fair is held in a field. Some years there is not one at all.

When a wedding was, flags were flown in the street and the man that gave the Bride marched first with about four couple behind, and walked to Hinderwell church. They could not get married in the chapels. As they came back, the father the first as he was called, the bride and bridegroom next, and others after. Guns were fired and hot pots were handed out of every (puclie?) house. All the village would be out to see the wedding and just as they entering the house, a plate with spice cake will be thrown over the heads. IIf this did not break it was unlucky.

When a wedding breakfast was provided for the friends. In the early day they would build houses for those getting married, women carried water from the beck, man got the stones from under the cliff and carried the sand, and it is still carried from the sands when the people build or repair. The house were low thatched houses. Some were pulled down and new ones take place of the old ones. Taps from which people get the water now are in the street. Cobblestones paved the street and passages - some have them yet but most roads have been redone and flags layed down.

When anyone dies the room which the person is laid is covered with white linen. Everything covered such as pictures, furnisher. Every one in the village is asked to attend a funeral - bidding this is called. On the day the funeral is to take place, waiters wearing white silks (these been handed down from generations) went from house to house with wine and biscuits a short distance roundabout the house. Then, when the coffee came out of the house they walked in front of the coffin. Singing up the street takes place and this is still kept up. At one time they carried coffins up Church Street and the road was along some of the fields to Hinderwell.

Staithes gets a lot of visitors in summer time there is a holiday camp near the school and the people in this village take them in and these visitors very much like the Staithes bonnets. Most take them back home. Different colors are worn. People who have black ones are in mourning.

There is a football club, tennis, cricket. There are no picture house. If any concerts that people get them up. Dance and Whist Drives are held. The fishermen are very good singers and go to different parts of the north to sing.